How to Replace the Battery in a MacBook Air M1 (A2337, 2020): Step-by-Step Guide
You can replace the battery in a MacBook Air M1 yourself, if you are patient and careful.
The MacBook Air M1 (A2337) is one of the more approachable MacBooks to open. There is no glue remover and no logic board removal. You do have to take out both speakers and peel six pull-out adhesive strips, so it is a moderate job, not an easy one. This guide shows the model names, the battery that fits, and every step with a picture.
The short answer
- Your Mac is an A2337, called MacBook Air (M1, 2020) by Apple. The battery model is A2389.
- Difficulty: moderate. The job has nine main steps and needs a P5 pentalobe and a T3 Torx screwdriver.
- The two catches: both speakers come out, and they need new adhesive when you refit them.
- Never DIY a swollen battery. Stop if the trackpad or case is lifting.
Should you do this yourself?
| You are... | Better choice | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Comfortable with tiny screws and patient | Do it yourself, if patient | Moderate job: both speakers come out and six adhesive strips pull out. Every step is below. |
| Never opened a laptop, or unsure about tiny cables | Have a technician fit it | The strips and speaker cables need a slow, steady hand. |
| Seeing a swollen battery or a lifted trackpad | Stop and get help | Do not open it yourself. See the warning on this page. |
| Battery is fine but the Mac still misbehaves | Fix the cause first | Check the charger, cable and the SMC or restart steps before buying a battery. |
How we put this page together
The steps and screw sizes come from our own battery listing and published repair procedures for this model. Cycle limits and the 80% figure come from Apple. Owner experience comes from public forum threads linked below, which we paraphrase rather than copy. Prices are from our own listings.
What we have not done yet: photographed this repair in our own workshop. The drawings on this page are our illustrations, not photos. We are adding real photos and will update the page.
Is your Mac an A2337? Every name, in one place
The same Mac goes by several names online. This table lines them up, so you can match your Mac to the right battery.
| Where you see it | What it is called |
|---|---|
| Apple’s name (Apple menu, About This Mac) | MacBook Air (M1, 2020) |
| How it is often listed online | MacBook Air 13 inch M1 2020, or MacBook Air Retina Late 2020 (M1) |
| Model number (printed on the bottom case) | A2337 |
| Model identifier (System Report) | MacBookAir10,1 |
| EMC number | 3598 |
| Apple order numbers | MGN63xx/A, MGN93xx/A, MGND3xx/A, MGN73xx/A, MGNA3xx/A, MGNE3xx/A |
| Battery model that fits | A2389 (Apple part 661-26150, per our listing) |
| Do not confuse with | The 2020 Intel MacBook Air A2179. It uses a different battery (A1965). |
To check yours, open the Apple menu and choose About This Mac. For the model identifier, hold Option, click the Apple menu and open System Information.
Is it really the battery?
Check before you buy. In System Settings, open Battery, then Battery Health. Hold Option, click the Apple menu and open System Information, Power, to see the cycle count. Apple lists a maximum of 1,000 cycles for the MacBook Air (M1, 2020), and designs the battery to keep up to 80% of its original capacity at that point. Apple explains the count on its cycle count page and the “Service Recommended” status on its battery service page. Apple says you can keep using the Mac with that status, and that AppleCare+ replaces a battery below 80% at no extra cost.
- Signs it is the battery: Service Recommended, a cycle count near 1,000, battery life that has dropped sharply, or shutdowns while unplugged.
- Signs it is not: the Mac fails only with one cable or charger. Try another first.
A single reading is not the whole story. Owners on forums say the percentages are estimates that move, and that what matters is the trend and the Service Recommended status.
Which battery to buy
Our listing is for the A2389 battery in the A2337. It shows a Standard grade at ₹4,950 and a Premium grade at ₹6,190, a 9-month replacement warranty, and a capacity of 49.9Wh. Our Standard vs Premium guide explains how to choose. The listing does not say whether adhesive strips come with the battery, so ask us before you order, because your old ones are removed in the job.
What it costs, and your other options
| Option | What it costs | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|
| Do it yourself with our battery | Standard ₹4,950, Premium ₹6,190, plus screwdrivers and speaker adhesive | Our listing gives a 9-month replacement warranty. Ask us whether adhesive strips are included. |
| A technician fits it | Ask for the battery brand, the warranty and the labour fee in writing | Ask whether the speakers get new adhesive. |
| Apple | Free with AppleCare+ below 80%. Otherwise a fee after inspection | Use Apple’s estimator for your exact model. |
| Replace the Mac | Our pre-owned M1 Air starts at ₹49,720 | Your A2337 runs macOS 27, so the Mac itself is not obsolete. |
A new battery costs about 10% to 12% of the price of a pre-owned M1 Air, and your Mac still gets software updates. If the rest of the Mac works, the battery is the cheaper fix.
Before you open anything
- Back up your Mac.
- Check that the battery really needs replacing. Open System Settings, then Battery, and look at Battery Health. Our Standard vs Premium guide explains the numbers.
- Let the battery run down. Turn the Mac on and let it discharge fully, because a charged lithium battery can be dangerous if it is punctured.
- Power off and unplug. A Mac can switch itself on when the case comes off. The Auto Boot trick that prevents it may not work on Big Sur 11.1 or later, so plan to disconnect the battery as the first thing you do inside.
A lifted trackpad, a bulging case or a puffy battery is a warning sign. Do not open the Mac yourself. Ask a technician.
What you need
- P5 pentalobe screwdriver for the bottom case.
- T3 Torx screwdriver. If the T3 bit feels loose, use a T4.
- Spudger and tweezers. The spudger is a plastic pry tool for connectors. Tweezers grip the pull tabs on the adhesive strips.
- A plastic card, plus a hair dryer or heat pad in case a strip breaks.
- New speaker adhesive. Put a strip of replacement adhesive under each speaker so it does not rattle.
- A tray or paper for the screws, and a soft cloth.
If you are missing tools, message us your model and we will tell you what we stock.
Step by step
Keep every screw with the part it came from. Our drawings are simplified, so your Mac may look a little different inside.
Remove the ten bottom screws
Power off and unplug the Mac, close the lid and flip it upside down onto the cloth. Use the P5 screwdriver to remove ten screws: two 7.9 mm, two 7.3 mm and six 2.6 mm. Sort them into three piles, or lay them out on paper in the same pattern as on the Mac.
Lift off the lower case
Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward. The case pops off. When you refit it, press firmly to snap the two hidden clips back in.
Unplug the battery first
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the metal locking arm on the battery plug. Make sure the arm is fully free, then lift straight up on it to pull the plug out of its socket. When you reconnect, press the plug straight down so it sits flush. If needed, push the wire side in first, then rock the front down.
Take out the right speaker
Remove the three 1.4 mm T3 screws from the audio board connector cover, and lift the cover off. Slide a spudger under the right speaker cable and pry it straight up. Remove the 4.2 mm T3 screw holding the speaker. Peel up the black pull tab of the speaker’s adhesive strip with tweezers, then pull the strip out slowly, as flat to the Mac as you can. If it snaps, warm the speaker and slide the spudger under it. Lift the speaker out.
Take out the left speaker
Do the same on the other side: pry the cable up, remove the 4.2 mm T3 screw, pull its adhesive strip out slowly, and lift the speaker out.
Free the trackpad cable
Remove the two 1.4 mm T3 screws from the trackpad cable cover and lift the cover off. Pry the cable connector up with the flat end of a spudger. The cable is lightly stuck to the battery, so peel it off gently. You can slide an opening pick under it if needed, taking great care not to touch the battery.
Release the battery
Remove the two 2.6 mm T3 screws holding the battery tray to the case. The battery cells sit on a metal tray, and you must not try to separate them from it. Six stretch-release adhesive strips hold the tray to the case, three on each side. Peel back each black pull tab with tweezers, then pull each strip out slowly, as flat to the Mac as you can. Do not drag it across the case. If one breaks, use a plastic card to finish separating the tray.
Lift the battery out and fit the new one
Lift out the battery assembly. Fit the new battery in reverse order: seat it, secure the tray screws, reconnect the trackpad cable, and press the battery plug in flat. Refit both speakers with fresh adhesive, reconnect their cables and the audio board cover, then refit the lower case and the ten bottom screws.
Calibrate the new battery
Calibrating a new battery helps the Mac report its charge correctly. Follow the six stages in the picture below.
If something is not right
- It will not start or charge. Shut down, reopen it and check that the battery plug sits flat and flush.
- The speakers rattle. The speaker adhesive was not replaced or is not stuck down. Refit with fresh adhesive.
- Odd behaviour after the swap. This Mac has Apple silicon, so there is no separate SMC reset. Apple says a restart or a shut down and power on does it.
Mistakes people make
- Skipping new speaker adhesive. The speakers can rattle.
- Pulling an adhesive strip fast or at an angle. It snaps. Pull slowly and flat.
- Starting with the battery plugged in. Disconnect it first.
- Lifting the plug the wrong way. Pry the locking arm, then lift straight up.
- Trying to separate the cells from the metal tray. Do not.
- Mixing up screw sizes. Keep the ten bottom screws in three piles.
- Buying an unbranded battery. Quality varies, so buy from a seller who gives a warranty.
What owners say
These are paraphrased from public threads. Read them for the exact words.
An M1 Air owner asked whether 93% capacity after 47 cycles was normal, because Apple support said it would not replace the battery unless it failed. Other members replied that it only matters below 80%, and that the percentages are estimates that move up and down.
What to take from it: check the trend and the status, not one number. Read the thread.
An M1 MacBook Pro owner saw Service Recommended at 79% health and 1,017 cycles, and asked whether Apple would replace it free. Replies quoted Apple’s rule that AppleCare+ covers a battery below 80% at no extra cost. Another member said that without AppleCare+ you can treat the message as advice and keep using the Mac until the battery life bothers you.
What to take from it: know which side of 80% you are on, and whether you have AppleCare+. Read the thread.
When not to do it yourself
- The battery is swollen or the case is lifting.
- You are not comfortable with tiny screws and delicate flat cables.
- An adhesive strip breaks and you cannot separate the tray with a card and heat. Stop rather than pry the battery.
Our battery listing itself advises that a qualified technician should fit it. This guide is for people who want to learn, and who accept that a mistake can cost more than the battery.
What to do with the old battery
Do not put it in the household bin. In India, laptop batteries fall under the Battery Waste Management Rules, 2022, which make producers responsible for collecting and recycling them. Ask the seller of your new battery whether they take the old one back, or hand it to an authorised collection point. See the Tamil Nadu Pollution Control Board battery waste page. If it was swollen, keep it away from heat and from anything that could puncture it until you hand it in.
Questions we get asked
Is the A2337 battery glued in?
It is held by six stretch-release adhesive strips, which pull out. You do not need adhesive remover, unlike some other MacBook Pros.
Do the speakers really have to come out?
Yes. Both speakers are removed to reach the battery, and they need new adhesive when you refit them.
Will an A2179 battery fit my A2337?
No. The A2179 is the 2020 Intel MacBook Air and uses a different battery. Use the A2389.
Which grade should I choose?
Standard for a lower cost, Premium if you plan to keep the Mac for years. Our Standard vs Premium guide explains the difference.
How many charge cycles does the battery last?
Apple lists a maximum of 1,000 cycles for the MacBook Air (M1, 2020). It designs the battery to keep up to 80% of its original capacity at that point.
Will Apple replace it for free?
Apple says a battery replacement is at no additional cost with AppleCare+ when the battery holds less than 80% of its original capacity. Otherwise there is a fee, set by Apple after inspection. Check Apple’s estimator for your exact model.
Can I keep using the Mac if it says Service Recommended?
Apple says yes. The status means the battery holds less charge than when new. Service it when the shorter battery life affects you.
Rather have us check the fit, or fit it?
Send Aparna your Mac’s model number (on the bottom case) and a screenshot of Battery Health. We will confirm the A2389 fits, and tell you honestly whether Standard or Premium suits how long you will keep the Mac.
Our drawings are simplified, not photos, and we have not filmed this repair. A punctured lithium battery can be dangerous. Checked 30 October 2026.
- Identify your MacBook Air model (Apple Support)
- Reset the SMC of your Mac (Apple Support)
- A2337 battery listing (Sparesonly.in)
- Determine battery cycle count for Mac laptops (Apple Support)
- If you see battery “Service Recommended” on your Mac laptop (Apple Support)
- Macbook air M1 - 93% battery capacity after 47 cycles (MacRumors Forums, August 2021)
- M1 battery service recommended (MacRumors Forums, May 2024)
- Battery waste (Tamil Nadu Pollution Control Board)
